Preparing a Vegetable Garden for Winter

To prepare a vegetable garden for winter, you'll want to do a great cleanup job in the fall. This garden care will make it easier to start the new growing season in the spring.
You may be tempted to skip some of these last-minute chores, but they're worth doing because they can make a big difference to the success of next year's garden. While these tasks can be put off until the start of the growing season, you can expect to be busy with the vegetable garden in the spring. You'll find it useful to have some of the work out of the way ahead of time.

As you finish harvesting crops and rows of garden space become available, it's a good idea to plant a cover crop, or green manure, as part of your preparation for the following year. This is a crop that you don't intend to harvest. It's simply to provide protection for the soil underneath. When you prepare for your spring planting, you dig the whole crop into the soil. A cover crop will keep your precious topsoil from blowing or washing away, and tilling it into the soil in the spring will provide valuable organic matter to enrich the soil.

The cover crop will also shade the soil, preventing many cool-season weeds from germinating. It's not necessary to plant the whole cover crop at one time to cover the entire garden; you can plant in each area of the garden as space becomes available.

Cover crops are not exclusively used over the winter. If you have a space in the garden that will be vacant for several weeks between plantings, a summer cover of buckwheat makes an ideal green manure. The buckwheat germinates quickly and covers the soil, preventing summer weeds from germinating. It's hollow-stemmed and easy to turn into the soil when you plant your next vegetable.
CONTINUE READING

Guide To Vermicomposting

Yard and food waste make up a major component of solid waste in most municipalities throughout the United States. Although much of this organic waste can be recycled in the backyard using traditional aerobic backyard composting techniques, these techniques are not appropriate for apartment dwellers and are often inconvenient, particularly during bad weather in the winter.1 Vermicomposting, or composting with earthworms, is an excellent technique for recycling food waste in the apartment as well as composting yard wastes in the backyard. Worm bins located near a hot water heater in the garage during the winter will save many a trip through the snow to the backyard compost bin. Letting worms recycle your food waste also saves your back, because you don’t have to turn over the compost to keep it aerated. TYPES OF EARTHWORM The most common types of earthworms used for vermicomposting are brandling worms (Eisenia foetida) and redworms or red wigglers (Lumbricus rubellus). Often found in aged manure piles, they generally have alternating red and buff-colored stripes. They are not to be confused with the common garden or field earthworm (Allolobophora caliginosa and other species). Although the garden earthworm occasionally feeds on the bottom of a compost pile, they prefer ordinary soil. An acre of land can have as many as 500,000 earthworms, which can recycle as much as 5 tons of soil or more per year. Redworms and brandling worms, however, prefer the compost or manure environment. Passing through the gut of the earthworm, recycled organic wastes are excreted as castings, or worm manure, an organic material rich in nutrients that looks like fine-textured soil.

 Continue Reading

Grow Your Own Ginger

Growing your own Ginger starts with Selecting a Healthy Root. Look for roots that are firm, fleshy and already have green points beginning to form at the ends. Some people prefer to cut the ginger into separate segments with at least one green tip per segment and allow to air dry for a 2-3 days.

  Now that you have selected a heathly root, the next step is to soak the root overnight in warm water. This step will help stimulate growth and rinse off any residue of chemicals that might be still on the root.

  Now its time to set the roots in a good rooting medium like Sphagnum Moss or coconut fiber. Set it so the that the top of the root is still visible, make sure the green plant tips are pointing up. Keep the rooting material lightly moist and allow it to dry out between waterings.

 When the first leaves have started to form and you can see the young small white roots its time to transplant. Take care and remove the ginger from the rooting medium. Use a pot that will drain well, fill part the way to the top with a quality potting mix. Gently place the ginger in the pot and cover new roots and to were the main ginger root is barely visible. Water it well and make sure your pot is draining.

Care and Growing of Peppers

Pepper is a tender, warm-season vegetable. Pepper plants require somewhat higher temperatures, grow more slowly and are smaller than most tomato plants. Brightly colored, sweet bell pepper varieties have recently burst onto the scene. A vast range of other garden peppers (pimiento, tabasco, cayenne, chili and paprika) may be grown for food, spices or as ornamentals.
The sweet varieties of peppers, especially the bells, traditionally have been by far the most popular in the United States. They are eaten green or ripe and are used for salads, stuffing, soup, stews, relishes and pickling. New developments in color and form have done nothing to dull the popularity of sweet peppers. Hot pepper varieties have also enjoyed a rebirth of popularity recently, mainly due to various ethnic cuisines that use their unique flavors and heat creatively.

Recommended Varieties

Hybrid Bell

Bell Boy (70 days to harvest; goes green to red)
Lady Bell (72 days; goes green to red)
Purple Belle (70 days; immature purple, black to red)
Chocolate Bell (75 days; green to chocolate brown)

Sweet Frying or Salad Type

Gypsy (65 days to harvest; pale yellow to orange to red)
Sweet Banana (70 days; pale yellow to orange to red)

Hot Peppers

Cayenne, large thick (70 days to harvest)
Cayenne, long, slim (73 days)
Jalapeno (70 days)
Red Chili (84 days)

When to Plant

Peppers are best started from seeds indoors in late winter and then transplanted into the garden after the soil and air have warmed in the spring. The plants cannot tolerate frost and do not grow well in cold, wet soil. When night temperatures are below 50° to 55°F, the plants grow slowly, the leaves may turn yellow and the flowers drop off. Raised beds, black plastic mulch and floating row covers may be used to advantage with peppers to warm and drain the soil and enhance the microenvironment of the young pepper plants in spring, when cool weather may persist.

Spacing & Depth

Set transplants 18 to 24 inches apart in the row, or 14 to 18 inches apart in all directions in beds. A dozen plants, including one or two salad and hot types, may provide enough peppers for most families; but with so many colors, flavors and types available, more may be necessary for truly devoted pepper lovers or for devotees of ethnic cuisines.

Care

Peppers thrive in a well-drained, fertile soil that is well supplied with moisture. Use a starter fertilizer when transplanting. Apply supplemental fertilizer (side-dressing) after the first flush of peppers is set. Because a uniform moisture supply is essential with peppers, especially during the harvest season, irrigate during dry periods. Hot, dry winds and dry soil may prevent fruit set or cause abortion of small immature fruits.

Harvesting

Fruits may be harvested at any size desired. Green bell varieties, however, are usually picked when they are fully grown and mature—3 to 4 inches long, firm and green. When the fruits are mature, they break easily from the plant. Less damage is done to the plants, however, if the fruits are cut rather than pulled off. The new, colored bell pepper fruits may be left on the plant to develop full flavor and ripen fully to red, yellow, orange or brown; or they may be harvested green and immature. Some (including "white," light yellow, lilac and purple) are colors that develop in the immature fruit and that should be harvested before actually ripening, when they turn red.
Hot peppers are usually harvested at the red-ripe stage; but "green chiles," the immature fruits, are also required for some recipes. Some dishes may actually call for a specific variety of chile to be authentic. Hot pepper flavor varies more from variety to variety than was previously appreciated.
To dry chiles, individual fruits can be picked and strung in a "ristras" or entire plants can be pulled in the fall before frost and hung in an outbuilding or basement to dry. Always exercise caution when handling hot varieties, because shin, noses and eyes may become painfully irritated. Plastic or rubber gloves may be helpful when picking or handling hot peppers.

Common Problems

People who use tobacco should wash their hands with soap and water before handling pepper plants to prevent spread of tobacco mosaic disease. Grow resistant varieties if possible.
Watch for accumulation of aphids on the underside of the leaves, especially near growing branch tips. When a large aphid population is present, sticky "honeydew" appears on the lower leaves and fruit. If this situation occurs, apply a suggested insecticide. Bacterial diseases may be transported on purchased transplants, so look over potential purchases carefully for any leaf spotting or stem cankers.

Questions & Answers

Q. Why do my pepper plants grow large but not develop fruits? They are dark green and do not appear to be diseased.
A. Several weather conditions can reduce fruit set of peppers. Early in the season, extreme cold may prevent fruit set. The most common problems later in the season are hot, dry winds and warm nights (above 70°F). Periods of extreme heat, with or without wind, may prevent fruit set, especially in some varieties. Although overfertilization, especially with nitrogen, is often suspected in these cases because the growth is luxuriant, peppers can actually produce fruit quite well under almost ridiculously high fertility programs. Pepper plants that have no developing fruit attached normally maintain a greener, healthier appearance because all the nutrients can go into producing leaves and stems instead of fruit.
Q. What causes small, dry, sunken black areas near the ends of the peppers?
A. This condition is blossom-end rot, a condition more commonly associated with tomato. It is caused by drought, uneven water availability, or pruning roots through improper cultivation. Blossom-end rot is more severe on some varieties of peppers than on others. Remove infected fruits and throw them away. Irrigation and mulching can help to prevent blossom-end rot. Though the condition is caused by a calcium deficiency in the affected fruit tissue, addition of calcium to the soil seldom alters the condition. The problem is one of calcium mobility in the plant, not lack of calcium in the soil.

Selection & Storage

Recent years have brought a remarkable surge in the popularity for peppers. With literally hundreds of varieties to select from, there is a pepper to suit everyone's taste. As easy to cultivate as tomatoes, chili peppers and sweet peppers are favorites of the small-plot-gardener. For practical purposes, in this section, peppers will be divided into two (2) categories: sweet peppers and chili peppers.
Sweet peppers
Sweet green bell-shaped peppers are the most popular garden variety. Left to ripen, they turn red, purple, orange or yellow and gain various levels of sweetness depending on the variety. Although the paler green and yellow tapering varieties have more flavor, all sweet peppers are similar in flavor and texture. They are crisp and refreshing raw, and pleasantly assertive when cooked to tenderness.
Green bell peppers are a main ingredient in Louisiana Creole and Cajun cuisine as well as Italian and Mediterranean cooking. Peppers can be harvested from July to October. They are delicious in the green stage, the sweeter ripe stage or anywhere in between. Due to the short Chicagoland growing season, many sweet peppers never reach full maturity/ripeness.
Chili peppers
Chili peppers are famous throughout the world from the fiery cuisines of Mexico, India, Thailand and Africa to the subtle flavor enhancement of the most delicate dishes. The hot varieties can also be picked at any color stage, but are hottest if allowed to fully ripen. Chili peppers ripen through a wide range of colors from yellow, orange, purple and even brown. Some chili peppers turn bright red, which is more often an indication of ripeness rather than hotness.
Chili peppers are perennial subshrubs native to South America, which are grown as annuals in our colder climate. They range in hotness from mild to fiery hot. The burning sensation is attributed to chemical compounds called capsaicinoids, which are stored in the light-colored veins, on the walls, and surrounding the seeds. Capsaicin acts on the pain receptors in the mouth, not the taste buds. Experts agree that long hot dry summers produce the best (hottest) chili peppers.

Nutritional Value & Health Benefits

Nutritionally, peppers vary depending on the variety and stage of maturity. In general, all peppers are a good source of vitamin A and C; the red ones are bursting with these two antioxidants. Antioxidants are a group of nutrients that neutralize free radicals in the body fluids reducing the risk of disease.
Free radicals are naturally produced when the body uses oxygen. Unless they are neutralized, they cause cell damage, which may lead to health problems such as arthritis, heart disease and cancer. A single raw red pepper, sweet or hot, can meet the daily requirements for two important antioxidants, vitamin A and C.
Nutrition Facts (one small raw sweet pepper, about 3/4 cup)

Calories 19.98
Protein 0.66 grams
Carbohydrates 4.76 grams
Dietary fiber 1.48 grams
Calcium 6.66 mg
Potassium 130.98 mg
Vitamin C
Green 66.08 mg
Red 140.60 mg
Folate 16.28 mcg
Vitamin A
Green 468 IU
Red 4218 IU

Preparation & Serving

Wash peppers just before using them. Peppers, both sweet and hot, are delicious raw, grilled or added to cooked preparations. Roasting peppers, however, brings out a totally taste. It is quite a chore, but well worth it. Char thick-skinned peppers until the skin is black and blistered. They can be charred under a broiler, over an open flame or on the grill. While they are still hot, cover or place in a paper bag for 15 minutes and allow the steam to loosen the charred skins. Peel over a bowl to catch the juices, and use in your favorite recipe.


From the University of Illinois Extension Orignal Article and more info

If you are cooking: Try flavoring it with:

If you are cooking:	Try flavoring it with:
Asparagus	Caraway, mustard, nutmeg, tarragon
Beets	Bay leaf, caraway, cloves, ginger
Berries	Cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, vanilla
Broccoli	Mustard, nutmeg, oregano, tarragon
Cabbage	Caraway, celery seed, cumin, curry, fennel
Carrots	Cinnamon, cloves, dill, ginger, marjoram
Cauliflower	Cayenne, celery seed, chili powder, nutmeg
Corn	Celery seed, cumin, curry powder, onion, parsley
Cucumbers	Chives, dill, garlic, mint, parsley, vinegar
Green Beans	Dill, curry powder, oregano, tarragon, thyme
Greens	Onion, pepper
Melons	Cardamom, ginger, mint, pepper
Peaches	Cinnamon, cloves, ginger, nutmeg
Pears	Anise, cinnamon, mint, nutmeg
Peas	Dill, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage
Rhubarb	Cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, vanilla
Spinach	Cinnamon, mint, nutmeg, oregano, sage, thyme
Summer Squash	Cloves, curry powder, nutmeg, rosemary, sage
Tomatoes	Basil, bay leaf, dill, onion, oregano, parsley

Training Tomatoes

This article was published originally on 5/9/2003

Byline: 

by Richard Jauron, Department of Horticulture

 

      

 Training Tomatoes   There are several advantages to training tomatoes to stakes or growing them in wire cages. Training tomatoes conserves valuable garden space for gardeners with small plots. Cultivating and harvesting trained tomatoes are easier. Tomato blight problems are generally less severe because of better air circulation. Plus, trained tomato plants often produce more usable fruit than those allowed to sprawl on the ground. Training methods vary, but the two most common methods are staking or growing in wire cages. 

Single Stake

One way to train tomato plants is by staking. Within 2 weeks of planting, drive a single, 6- to 8-foot-long stake 1 to 2 feet into the ground 3 to 4 inches from each plant. The roots of the tomato plants may be injured if the stakes are put in later in the season. As the tomato grows, tie the plant to the stake with strips of old nylon hose or cloth about every 12 inches up the stem. Tie the material in a loose figure 8, with the stake in one loop and the stem in the other. When training the plant to single stem, pinch out the sideshoots or suckers that form in the axil of the leaf and stem. Staking tomato plants to a single stem should produce an earlier crop. However, the fruit of staked plants are more susceptible to sunscald and blossom end rot because the removal of sucker growth reduces the leaf canopy. Total yield is lower than alternate training methods. If the lowest sucker is allowed to develop into a second stem, the additional foliage should reduce the occurrence of sunscald. Staking is not recommended for the shorter growing, determinate tomato varieties because yields will be drastically reduced.  

Wire Cage

A popular method of training tomatoes that requires less attention is the wire cage. A tomato cage can be constructed from concrete reinforcing wire or similar material. Manufactured cages are also available at garden centers.When constructing a wire cage, the mesh must be large enough to enable you to pick the fruit. A wire cage 20 to 24 inches in diameter and 4 to 5 feet tall is excellent. To form a cage 20 inches in diameter, the fence section should be 5 to 5 1/2 feet wide. (The circumference of a circle can be found by multiplying 3.14 by the circle diameter.) Remove the horizontal wire at the bottom of the cage and stick the vertical wires or feet into the soil. For greater stability, drive one or two stakes into the ground next to the cage. Then fasten the cage to the stakes.Plants grown in wire cages don't need to tied to the cage or pruned. As the plant grows, simply place wayward stems back within the wire cage. The yield from tomatoes grown in wire cages should be larger than other growing methods. There should also be fewer fruit problems.While there are other methods to train tomatoes, the single stake and wire cage remain the favorites of most gardeners.

This article originally appeared in the 5/9/2003 issue.

Year of Publication: 

2003

Issue: 

IC-489(10) -- May 9, 2003

by Richard Jauron, Department of Horticulture

Homemade Weed Killer

   Mix vinegar with a bit of liquid soap is quite the effective weed killer. The general ratio is one ounce of soap to one gallon of vinegar. If you’re mixing a smaller batch, adjust using less liquid soap.  Vinegar is made of acetic acid, which removes the moisture from the plant. The liquid soap helps the vinegar stick to the plant’s leaves. Most Vinegar is only 5% acidity which will work OK, but 10% or 20% acidity* is much better. You can check most garden supply stores for stronger acidity vinegar.
       For optimal results use the  solution on a hot, sunny, dry day. You’ll kill anything you spray, so be careful around the plants you want to keep. Vinegar weed killer will not kill the roots of plants only the foliage.  You might have to use repeat applications to kill the weeds. Compared to commercial weed killers this method is still cheaper to use.
       Finally, Some recipes have adding salt to the weed killer recipe. I have tried both methods and each works. I prefer just using vinegar without salt cause most of the time you can't plant anything in the spot for a while.

* A good friend has suggested to reduce the vinegar by 1/4 by boiling it on the stove. Most vinegar is reduced to 5% acidity by adding water to it per most labels on vinegar.

Gardening Tips for Sage

Sage is a popular perennial herb, meaning it will come back year after year, if taken care of properly. The common sage is considered an evergreen plant that grows in bush form. Its leaves are grayish and it has spikes of colorful blue and purple flowers. However, there are many varieties of the sage plant. It has a strong and pungent odor. When used in recipes it can taste bitter.

The best way to begin growing this herb is in its plant form. You can purchase this by seed; however it will take you longer to actually have a well establish plant this way. The good news is that once a sage plant begins to take root and begins to grow it is a very hardy plant.

A sage plant can thrive in most soils. It does require a lot of sun and you will need to water it on a regular basis. In fact, it prefers to stay moist.
If you wish to start your sage from seed, it is best to begin sowing them indoors in March. By April, they will be ready to be repotted or put into the ground. It could take up to June the following year before you see a real harvest if you begin your sage by seed. Continue Reading

Guide to Home Canning of Tomatoes

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Quality: Select only disease-free, preferably vine-ripened, firm fruits for canning.

Quantity: An average of 21 pounds of whole or halved tomatoes (22 pounds of crushed tomatoes), is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an average of 13 pounds (14 pounds of crushed tomatoes) is needed per canner load of 9 pints. A bushel weighs 53 pounds and yields 15 to 21 quarts, an average of 3 pounds per quart.

Caution: Do not can tomatoes from dead or frost-killed vines. Green tomatoes are more acidic than ripened fruit and can be canned safely with any of the following recommendations.

Acidification: To ensure safe acidity in whole, crushed or juiced tomatoes, add 2 tablespoons of bottled lemon juice or ½ teaspoon of citric acid per quart of tomatoes. For pints, use 1 tablespoon bottled lemon juice or ¼ teaspoon citric acid. Acid can be added directly to the jars before filling with product. Add sugar to offset acid taste, if desired. Four tablespoons of vinegar with a 5 percent acidity per quart may be used instead of bottled lemon juice or citric acid. However, vinegar may cause undesirable flavor changes.

Recommendation: Use of a pressure canner will result in higher-quality and more nutritious canned tomato products. If your pressure canner cannot be operated above 15 PSI, select a process time at a lower pressure.

Altitude Adjustments: The processing time and pressures given for canning tomatoes and tomato products are for an altitude of 0–1000 feet. If you are canning at a higher altitude, make the following adjustments.
In a Boiling Water Bath: At altitudes of 1,001–3,000 feet, add 5 minutes to the processing time.
In a Dial Gauge Pressure Canner: As the altitude increases, the processing time for each food stays the same, but the canner pressure must be increased as follows:

• At altitudes of 1001–2000 feet, the pressure is not increased; process at 11 pounds pressure.
• At altitudes of 2001 – 4000 feet, process at 12 pounds pressure.

In a Weighted Gauge Pressure Canner: At altitudes above 1000 feet, the processing time for each food stays the same, but the food must be processed at 15 pounds pressure.

WHOLE OR HALVED TOMATOES (PACKED RAW WITHOUT ADDED LIQUID)

Procedure: Wash tomatoes. Dip in boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds or until skins split, then dip in cold water. Slip off skins and remove cores. Leave whole or halve. Add bottled lemon juice or citric acid to the jars. (See acidification directions.) Add 1 teaspoon of salt per quart to the jars, if desired. Fill jars with raw tomatoes, leaving ½-inch headspace. Press tomatoes in the jars until spaces between them fill with juice. Leave ½-inch headspace. Wipe jar rims. Adjust lids and process using one of the following options.
Option 1 — Process in a Boiling Water Bath:
              Pints or Quarts……………..85 minutes
Option 2 — Process in a Dial-Gauge Pressure Canner at 11 pounds pressure
               or in a Weighted Gauge Pressure Canner at 10 pounds pressure
               Pints or Quarts……………...25 minutes

WHOLE OR HALVED TOMATOES (PACKED IN WATER)

Procedure: Wash tomatoes. Dip in boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds or until skins split; then dip in cold water. Slip off skins and remove cores. Leave whole or halve. Add bottled lemon juice or citric acid to jars. (See acidification directions). Add 1 teaspoon salt per quart to the jars, if desired.

For Hot Pack: Add enough water to cover the tomatoes and boil them gently for 5 minutes. Fill jars with hot tomatoes or with raw peeled tomatoes. Add the hot cooking liquid to the hot pack, leaving ½-inch headspace. Adjust lids and process.

For Raw Pack: Heat water, for packing tomatoes, to a boil. Add 1 teaspoon salt to each quart; ½ teaspoon to each pint jar, if desired. Pack prepared tomatoes in hot jars, leaving ½-inch headspace. Fill hot jars to ½ inch from top with boiling water. Adjust lids and process using one of the following options.
Option 1 — Process in a Boiling Water Bath:
            Pints………………………..40 minutes
            Quarts……………………...45 minutes
Option 2 — Process in a Dial-Gauge Pressure Canner at 11 pounds pressure
            or in a Weighted Gauge Pressure Canner at 10 pounds pressure
            Pints or Quarts…………….. 10 minutes

WHOLE OR HALVED TOMATOES (PACKED IN TOMATO JUICE)

Procedure: Wash tomatoes. Dip in boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds or until skins split, then dip in cold water. Slip off skins and remove cores. Leave whole or halve. Add bottled lemon juice or citric acid to the jars. (See acidification directions.) Add 1 teaspoon of salt per quart to the jars, if desired.

Raw pack: Heat tomato juice in a saucepan. Fill jars with raw tomatoes, leaving ½-inch headspace. Cover tomatoes in the jars with hot tomato juice, leaving ½-inch headspace. Adjust lids and process.

Hot pack: Put tomatoes in a large saucepan and add enough tomato juice to completely cover them. Boil tomatoes and juice gently for 5 minutes. Fill jars with hot tomatoes, leaving ½-inch headspace. Add hot tomato juice to the jars to cover the toma-toes, leaving ½-inch headspace. Wipe jar rims. Adjust lids and process using one of the following options:
Option 1 — Process in a Boiling Water Bath:
            Pints or Quarts……………..85 minutes
Option 2 — Process in a Dial-Gauge Pressure Canner at 11 pounds pressure
            or in a Weighted Gauge Pressure Canner at 10 pounds pressure
           Pints or Quarts………….25 minutes

CRUSHED TOMATOES (WITH NO ADDED LIQUID)

This recipe yields a high-quality product, ideally suited for use in soups, stews and casseroles.
Procedure: Wash tomatoes and dip in boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds or until skins split. Then dip in cold water, slip off skins and remove cores. Trim off any bruised or discolored portions and quarter.
Heat one-sixth of the quarters quickly in a large pot, crushing them with a wooden mallet or spoon as they are added to the pot. This will draw out the juice. Continue heating the tomatoes, stirring to prevent burning. Once the tomatoes are boiling, gradually add remaining quartered tomatoes, stirring constantly. These remaining tomatoes do not need to be crushed. They will soften with heating and stirring. Continue until all tomatoes are added. Then boil gently 5 minutes.
Add bottled lemon juice or citric acid to jars. (See acidification directions.) Add 1 teaspoon of salt per quart to the jars, if desired. Fill jars immediately with hot tomatoes, leaving ½-inch headspace. Wipe jar rims. Adjust lids and process using one of the following options.
Option 1 — Process in a Boiling Water Bath:
            Pints………………………..35minutes
            Quarts……………………...45 minutes
Option 2 — Process in a Dial-Gauge Pressure Canner at 11 pounds pressure
            or in a Weighted Gauge Pressure Canner at 10 pounds pressure
            Pints or Quarts…………15 minutes

FREEZING TOMATOES

Select firm, ripe tomatoes with deep red color.
Wash and dip in boiling water for 30 seconds to loosen skins. Core and peel. Freeze whole or in pieces. Pack into containers, leaving 1-inch headspace. Seal and freeze. Use only for cooking or seasoning, as tomatoes will not be solid when thawed.

FREEZING TOMATO JUICE

Wash, sort and trim firm, vine-ripened tomatoes. Cut in quarters or eighths. Simmer 5 to 10 minutes. Press through a sieve. If desired, season with 1 teaspoon salt to each quart of juice. Pour into containers. If using containers with wide top openings, leave ½-inch headspace for pints and 1-inch for quarts. If using containers with narrow top openings, leave 1½-inch headspace. Seal and freeze.

FREEZING STEWED TOMATOES

Remove stem ends, peel and quarter ripe tomatoes. Cover and cook until tender (10 to 20 minutes). Place pan containing tomatoes in cold water to cool. Pack into containers, leaving headspace. Leave ½-inch headspace for pint containers with wide top opening and 1-inch for quarts. If containers have a narrow top opening, leave ¾-inch headspace for pints and 1½-inch for quarts. Seal and freeze.
For more information on home canning, contact your local Extension agent. Source: USDA. Complete Guide to Home Canning, Agriculture Information Bulletin No. 539. Reviewed 1994.

#Canning #tomatoes, #HomeCanning

How To Dry Basil From Your Garden

 Basil is one of the most versatile herbs, which can give you big yields in sunny summer weather. The plant’s leaves are the main component of the flavorful pesto sauce and are used fresh in salads, sandwiches, and many other recipes. The fresh leaves are used all during the growing season but the plant will die back as soon as temperatures begin to cool. Drying basil is an easy way to save the delicious leaves and provide you with that summer taste even in winter.

 How to Dry Fresh Basil
Dry basil has a more intense flavor when it is fresh but it degrades quickly. Dried herbs are generally 3 to 4 times stronger than the fresh herb. The leaves have high moisture content and need to dry quickly to prevent molding. Air has to circulate freely around both sides of the leaf for the fastest drying. Drying fresh basil is an easy way to preserve the fresh lemony-anise to spicy-pepper flavor of the herb. Continue Reading Here

Growing Your Own Garlic Is Easy!

Fall is the time to plant, and no vegetable is so easy to grow and harvest.
As far as I'm concerned, garlic gets the blue ribbon for growing your own. It's absurdly easy to plant and care for; it tastes great; it looks beautiful and it takes up so little ground that even those with very small gardens can raise enough to be self-sufficient in garlic for a good part of the year. Complete Article Here


#Gardening #Herbs #GardeningTips

DIY Project: Space-Saving Herb Garden

It is the classic cook’s conundrum: You want to have fresh herbs at arm’s reach, but you haven’t got the space for an entire herb garden—or you live in an apartment with very little outdoor space. So, we created our own simple DIY solution that props your herb garden up with basic yard lattice. Complete Instructions Here

Growing Herbs in Pots

There's no better choice for container plantings than flavorful herbs such as basil, rosemary, thyme and parsley.

With pots, you can have your herbs close to the kitchen--on the patio, on the back-porch steps or even on the kitchen windowsill, if you're lucky enough to have a very sunny one.

Herbs will add greenery and fragrance to your living space. And it will be so easy to snip a few stalks that you may find yourself cooking with herbs in new and adventurous ways.... Complete article here